“Harry McKeogh learnt his craft with Johnny Cooke, amongst other good and serious chefs, and the inspiration of that fine cooks shows in his style and his choice of ingredients.
Basically, he inclines to sweetness: he loves scallops, he loves peas, he loves crab, he loves quail, loves asparagus, knows how to make a killer sirloin steak, and his risotti and pasta dishes shown quiet aplomb and colourful confidence. He works with the seasons, and he knows when enough is enough, in other words, when the sweetness of his ingredients is piqued. He is a mature cook, a guy who served his time cheffing around the world and learnt at each stage, and it’s given him a sprezzatura rigour as he is finishing a dish in this handsome, angular room just beside the river in Killaloe. So, you might find those asparagus and peas together in a fine risotto with roast corn-fed chicken. Barbary duck will have a bitter counterpoint of endive sweetened with some honey, and his classic dishes of Tipperary sirloin or rack of Limerick lamb show a chef who isn’t interested in re-inventing the wheel, just making sure it runs smoothly.“